Bike creaking when pedaling

Quick-release skewers or thru axles that aren't tight enough are a common culprit. Loosen and re-tighten them first. If that doesn't fix the problem, clean and regrease the contact surfaces. Also check the hubs for wear and bearing play – both can cause noise while riding. Finally, squeeze the spoke pairs firmly to check the spoke tension. If it's too low, the spokes will need to be re-tensioned and the wheel may need to be trued.

Play between the handlebar and stem can cause a clicking noise in the cockpit. Loosen the clamp bolts and remove the handlebar from the stem. Clean all contact surfaces thoroughly, apply assembly paste to the clamping areas, then reassemble and torque all bolts to spec.

The most common cause is insufficient bearing preload – though wear and contamination can also be responsible. To check, hold the front brake, grip the area between the fork crown and head tube, and rock the bike back and forth. Any play here means the preload needs adjusting. Loosen the stem by releasing the steerer clamp bolts, then increase the preload with the top cap bolt until the play is gone.

The fork can creak at the crown, the dropouts, or where the stanchions and lower legs meet. Play between the fork crown and steerer, or bushing play between the stanchions and lower legs, means it's time to visit a suspension specialist. If the noise is coming from the dropouts or the lower headset bearing, refer back to sections 1 and 3.

An under-torqued saddle or a dry seatpost are the usual suspects. Remove both, check for damage, and clean them thoroughly. Reassemble using the manufacturer-recommended grease or assembly paste, and torque everything to spec.

If you notice the bottom bracket creaking when pushing hard, you should first remove the crank. Then remove any dirt and check it for damage. Also check that the chainrings are securely fixed with the right torque. Then check that the bearing cups are firmly mounted while the bearings should rotate easily and evenly. If this is not the case, the only solution is to replace the bottom bracket. If your bearing is still in good condition, you can reassemble everything. Make sure that the contact and connecting surfaces are sufficiently greased and that all bolts are tightened to the correct torque.

Loose pedals or dirt in the threads are the most common cause. Check that the pedals are tight, free of play, and undamaged. Clean them, grease the threads, and refit to the correct torque.

A loose cassette is a frequent cause – check that it's torqued correctly. A small amount of grease or assembly paste on the freehub body can also help reduce friction.

Worn chains, chainrings, or cassettes can also cause creaking or squeaking under load. Measure chain wear to determine whether the chain needs replacing. If the chainrings and cassette show shark-tooth wear, replace them as well. If your components are still in good condition, see our guide on how to oil your bike chain to reduce friction effectively.

Dirt and dust in the moving parts of the rear derailleur or front derailleur can cause noise. Clean the front derailleur, rear derailleur, and derailleur hanger thoroughly, then apply a few drops of penetrating oil to the pivot points.

Treat frame noise with caution. A crack in a frame tube or weld seam is a serious safety risk. If you suspect the frame, have it inspected by a professional. If the damage is obvious, stop riding the bike immediately.